My progress so far...

Sunday, 19 July 2009

The Gorges of Verdon - we are never really alone

With a couple of extra days up my sleeve I decide to visit the Gorges of Verdon. Visiting the tourist office the man tells me: "it will be very difficult to get there..." I thought they were there to encourage you :)

My best bet I decide will be to catch a train to Manosque then hitchhike the remainder. Hopping on a train I leave the streets behind and head out into the countryside.

Nearing Manosque I start to have hitchhiking worries - perhaps today I will hitch a tractor.

To my relief only 5 minutes on the road and my ride arrives. My saviour: a young, hippy-like french woman.


Weaving through the rural french fields of lavender she asks if I'd like to meet her friends. Feeling free I agree and we head for Moustiers-Sainte-Marie.

Closing in on Moustiers I gaze out the window at Para gliders hanging in the sky. Side note: Add Paragliding to top ten things to do before I die.

As soon as I see Moustiers I like it. Cut into the mountain the town has a mystical feel to it. I Close my eyes and I'm reminded of an old fairytale where the characters live in small houses on the branches of an old oak tree.


Nearing I struggle to hold back the urge to wind down the window and hang out.

Arriving we walk the town - stopping in for a local honey beer before continuing to the campsite. We're lucky: a local band is playing, and continues to on into the night. The company is good, and before I know it I'm in the back of a van on my way to a good free camping spot by a small stream.

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With darkening skies looming wind gusts through the valley, blowing smoke in my face. Giving up on my campfire dreams I instead visit my new German friends - Karin and Christian who are escaping on a 1 year trip in their restored Citroen -two horse-. These guys have got travel down to a fine art, extending out like a Swiss army knife their modified car has all that a traveller could ever really need. I'm impressed.

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In the morning I rise after a windy night and join Karin and Christian for breakfast. We flip through a photo album they carry and with each page I learn more of their lives. Its nice to see family photos again - reminding me that I too will soon see mine.

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With thumb out I hope for a short ride back to where the Verdon walk begins. A mere 12km the journey should be simple but after one hour standing in the hot sun my teeth begin to grind. Cars buzz by - parents in the front, kids in the back - doesn't anyone have room for me!

Changing spots I finally get a ride. My new best friends are not going far, but far enough for me. We park by the river and I join them for a quick dip in the icy cold water. The experience is painful but it brings relief from the heat of the day. They speak of their own town which is just a few km away over the hill - and ask if I'd like to come with them. I'd love to, but with time escaping me I must move on.

Parting ways I walk back up the hill to where the Gorges of Verdon hike begins. Bold signs warn that the track is for experienced hikers only, average time to complete: 7hrs. Looking to my watch I see the time is already 5pm. The walk looks wonderful - the opportunity too good to pass up - I take the track.


Winding along next to the river the view is amazing. Passing a km marker I see I'm making good progress. All is going well until I arrive at the base of a large steel structure. The climb above is ridiculously steep with steps so close to one another I feel I could fall at any moment. I cling to the railing and push forward.

Taking one last ginger step I place foot on the top platform and turn to look back down - I'm so glad I dont have to descent.

To my surprise, as the sun begins to set I start the zigzagging ascent out of the valley. Catching up with a group of 5 guys we climb together and at the top enjoy victory with an ice cold beer.

Imagine my luck when I find out that tomorrow they will visit Cassis, and can take me back to Marseille on the way.

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